In the middle of busy Durrës, surrounded by houses and cafés, lies one of the largest Roman amphitheatres in the Balkans. Built in the 2nd century AD, it once seated some 15,000–20,000 spectators.
Much of it still lies beneath the modern town, which only adds to the atmosphere as you climb among the arches. Look out for the small early-Christian chapel inside, decorated with rare wall mosaics.
Good to know: the site is a short walk from the seafront and the port — easy to combine with a stroll along the promenade and a fish lunch.